The Transhumance Routes: Cycling Along the Celano-Foggia Tratturo with My Friends

Some adventures begin with a map but turn into something much deeper when truly experienced. That’s exactly what happened to me and three inseparable friends when we decided to cycle along the Celano-Foggia Tratturo, one of the ancient Transhumance Routes crossing Abruzzo, Molise, and Puglia. A spring bike journey through unspoiled nature, historic villages, and shared laughter. We didn’t know exactly what to expect. We had read about the tratturi—the ancient grassy paths used for centuries by transhumant shepherds—but experiencing them firsthand was something else. Molise, in particular, surprised us with its authenticity and landscapes frozen in time.

The Journey Begins: Mountains and Truffles

We started in Rivisondoli, a medieval village in Abruzzo nestled in the mountains. Strolling through its stone alleys, breathing in the crisp air, and watching the red rooftops glow at sunset, we immediately knew this would be a special experience. On our bikes, we crossed into Molise, following the Sangro River as it meandered through forests and pastures. The village of San Pietro Avellana welcomed us with its peaceful atmosphere and the unmistakable scent of truffles, a local specialty. Over a plate of tagliolini al tartufo and a glass of Tintilia, Molise’s signature red wine, we toasted to the start of our journey.

Cycling Through Natural Reserves and Timeless Villages

Our next stop led us through the Montedimezzo Nature Reserve, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Cycling among centuries-old forests, with sunlight filtering through the leaves and birdsong breaking the silence, was pure serenity. Further along, the wilderness deepened in Collemeluccio, where time seemed to stand still. Every now and then, we paused to pick wildflowers or watch a bird of prey soaring overhead. Then, suddenly, Bagnoli del Trigno appeared before us—the Pearl of Molise. Perched against a rocky cliff, with houses clinging to the mountainside, it offered breathtaking views of the Trigno Valley. We spent the evening there, sharing stories, sipping local wine, and feeling an ever-growing connection to both the place and each other.

From Pastures to Coastal Views

Leaving Bagnoli, the tratturo led us through forests, shrubs, and vast meadows, where flocks of sheep still graze freely. Crossing the Biferno River by bike was an adventure in itself—laughing until tears ran down our faces, feet in the water, pushing our bikes along. Reaching Bonefro, we stopped to take in the distant view of the Adriatic Sea. The Tremiti Islands stood on the horizon, almost surreal. Shortly after, in San Giuliano di Puglia, we stepped into history—Norman traces, ancient churches, and silent stones whispering stories of the past.

Arriving in the Tavoliere delle Puglie

The final stretch of the Celano-Foggia Tratturo took us into Puglia, crossing the Fortore River and heading towards Lucera—a slight detour, but one worth making. Yet, the most emotional moment came when, after countless kilometers, we reached the Epitaffio di Foggia, the historic endpoint of the transhumance routes. We embraced in silence—because this journey had been much more than just an itinerary.

Why Cycle the Celano-Foggia Tratturo?

This section of the Transhumance Routes offers a slow-travel experience through the heart of Molise, one of Italy’s most authentic and least-known regions. It’s perfect for those who love bike touring, nature, historic villages, and an immersive journey through history. Along the way, you’ll find welcoming communities, vibrant traditions, and astonishing biodiversity. Whether you choose to walk, cycle, or explore just a portion of it, the Celano-Foggia Tratturo is an experience that truly leaves a mark.